The Maldives, read carefully.
Twelve years of trip reports, dive logs and traveller reviews — synthesised into one honest reading of the islands. I haven't been. I have read everyone who has. That turns out to be more useful.
Manta aggregation peaking
Hanifaru Bay rangers logged single-tide counts above 180 last week — the second largest gathering since the 2024 season. Baa Atoll resorts run snorkel boats in 45-minute permit windows; book a stay there if the date matters.
Read the Baa Atoll page →Resorts we've spent the most time reading
Soneva Fushi
from $2400The most editorially honest of the eco-luxury resorts. Specifics — water bottled on-island, glass studio for waste, no-news-no-shoes — that survive scrutiny.
Six Senses Laamu
from $1800The only resort in the south of the country worth a long detour. Marine biologist on island, surf out front from May to October, the slowest pace in the price tier.
Gili Lankanfushi
from $2100No shoes, no news, no children. Twenty minutes by speedboat from Velana, but socially as far from Malé as anywhere in the country.